A modern interpretation of Amarone on one hand, yet dense, fresh and altitudinal of feel, brimming with the marrow of alpine herb and spruce sap, on the other. Bitter cocoa, espresso grind and the usual swathe of pithy, dried grape skin tannins, menthol and black licorice strap. Immense, powerful and fresh. I suppose that one can ask just how much of this can be drunk. On the other hand, a glass is impressive in the right moment. Drink or hold.

The Allegrini 2019 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico reverts to a classic profile for air-dried fruit made with appassimento. There are distant whiffs of candied cherry that give more lift and intensity to the bouquet that is otherwise characterized by heavier tones of black fruit, candied cherry, red licorice and sweet earth or potting soil. It finishes with a well-balanced full-bodied style (and a noticeable 16% alcohol content). The traditional blend is 45% Corvina Veronese, 45% Corvinone, 5% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta