Complex nose of earthy berries, blood oranges and dried plums with hints of tar, black tea and new leather. A juicy and linear Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, despite the structured, full-bodied palate. Tight, very integrated and complete with a savory yet fresh and mineral finish. Delicious to drink now, but will hold well.

The organic 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Capannino is a second careful single-vineyard selection from this leading estate based in Castellina in Chianti. I love the broad intensity of this wine and all the velvety cherry, blackberry and plum it awards. There is a pleasing, almost decadent quality to this wine, yet it remains elegant and within the more constrained framework of Sangiovese. That means it shows good depth and freshness too.

One of two Gran Selezione, Vigna del Capannino represents the warmer side of the Bibbiano estate. The vineyard faces southwest on schist soil over clay. While this is its usual brooding self, it's less overtly ripe than the 2018. It starts diffused and smoky then gains focus with perfumed incense and dried potpourri scents. Vertical in profile, plum and cherry cling to firm, finessed tannins. The structure builds but does not become muscular. While showing appealing earth and mineral now, Capannino needs time to unfurl.