*Vintage may vary by location*

With Chartogne-Taillet one appreciates the significance of terroir. Theirs is an example of just how wonderful wines can be simply because of how talented and conscientious they are. Their land, while good (Merfy is 84% on the Echelle de Crus) is not aristocratic, and I'm certain if we could transplant them to, say, A˜ or Mesnil they'd promptly take their place among the elite. As it is, we have overachievers making some silky, swank fizz articulated with careful diction, easy drinking and forthright. These are racy, spicy Champagnes at the low end; sumptuous, brioche-y Champagnes at the top. For some reason, a consistent standout in blind tastings! The basic wine is keen and racy, and the upper-end wines are virtually luscious, they are so brioche-y and creamy. Lovers of old-style Champagnes are encouraged to look closely at these.

• Pinot Noir • Chardonnay •