Made in the style of the 2010, the massive 2005 Hermitage Ex Voto offers searing minerality and crushed-rock nuances as well as tons of black raspberries, licorice, toasted spice and charcoal. Full-bodied, incredibly concentrated, with a wall of sweet tannin, this behemoth nevertheless stays nicely focused, pure and classic on the finish. Give it another 4-5 years and enjoy bottles over the following 30-40+ years.

Rather sleek, with fresh, very rounded plum, cherry and blackberry fruit held together by notes of black tea, sweet earth and hoisin sauce. The texture is polished and the finish very long, with echoes of mocha flittering throughout. There's plenty of grip in reserve, and this should blossom in the cellar. Far more refined than the 2003, though not quite as dynamic.