R Lopez De Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Vina Cubillo 750 ml

Cubillo is always sold as a Crianza, partly because it’s always been done that way, but has nothing whatsoever to do with the kind of high-volume wines you find on supermarket shelves. Pairing Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Graciano and Mazuelo, all from the 80-year-old Cubillas vineyard, this is sweet and savoury, with lots of racy cranberry acidity and sinewy tannins.

The super bargain of the portfolio has to be the red 2017 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza, which this year shows more development and faster aging, with more tertiary notes than the other reds from 2013 and 2014 that I tasted next to it. The frost of April 2017 killed 100% of the vegetal mass at Cubillo, and the grapes they picked were exclusively from the second generation, therefore fruit that ripened in a much shorter cycle, as the harvest was also earlier. It has notes of damp earth, mushrooms, truffles and forest floor, dry leaves and decayed flowers and herbs. It has a polished palate and is medium-bodied, with mostly resolved tannins, and it feels a little lighter. But it's still worth it. It was produced with a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo from vines averaging 53 years of age. It fermented in their old oak vats and matured in used American oak barrels for three+ years. It has 13.5% alcohol, a 3.0 pH and 6.5 grams of acidity. 90,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2023

he 2017 Viña Cubillo combines 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo from Rioja Alta. This aged for three years in American oak barrels. Offering vinous aromas, gentle oak and dark fruit with herbal notes, the frost-hit vintage provided lighter fruit and greener flavors. Smooth, juicy and slightly chalky, it nonetheless retains the fine-boned elegance of the Cubillo style.