A neoclassical edition of Grand-Puy-Lacoste, this has cedar, graphite, deeply integrated cedar and spicy-oak influence and a very fresh array of ripe blackberries, dark cherries and cassis. The palate is so seamless. It builds beautifully and delivers a long, seamless array of perfectly ripe dark fruit, swathed in fine, firm, ascending layers of tannins. As good as we have seen in recent vintages, this is a star of the vintage. Try from 2024.

The 2016 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a clean, precise bouquet with nicely detailed blackberry, briar and tobacco aromas, touches of mint emerging with time, all utterly charming. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, conveying a sense of symmetry throughout and leading into a deft, quite persistent finish. This is very classy, and it should age with style. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.

This has a punch of mouth-filling dark cassis fruits and lots of complex tobacco, liquorice and truffle. Layer upon layer of flavour is joined by tight tannins, but with air and life in between. It's young and well balanced, easily equal to the power of a Lynch Bages or a Pichon Baron. I loved it en primeur and love it again here. Consultant is Eric Boissenot, technical director is Christel Spinner.