The nose opens with salted dark chocolate, Luxardo cherries, pomegranate syrup and espresso, then aromas of new leather and crushed rocks emerge. The palate is full of bitter chocolate and sweet and tart berries, and has a gleaming knife’s edge of metallic tang. Refined tannins and lots of acid.

A complex red with floral, lemon-rind and candied-cherry character. It’s medium-bodied with juicy fruit, as well as plenty of dried citrus rind. Some sandalwood and dried-flower undertones, too. Drink in three or four years.

Dried black cherries and crushed plums mix with cocoa, sage and dried orange peels as the 2020 Brunello di Montalcino emerges from the glass. This displays incredible vibrancy within. It’s juicy and spry, with ripe red and black fruits elevated by brilliant acidity as nuances of sour citrus add further tension toward the close. The 2020 leaves the palate stained in primary concentration and a coating of fine tannins, tapering off spicy and long yet still lively as hints of tart raspberry keep the mouth watering for more. Recent vintages from Pian delle Vigne have delightful new energy and verve.