Is le Méal the most complex and complete lieu-dit on Hermitage, when considering both red and white wines? The 2018 Ermitage le Méal Blanc certainly makes a case for the white, offering honeyed, complex notes of mixed citrus, pineapple, pear and melon, structural notes of crushed stone, ample weight and richness on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. Just terrific.

Another heavenly white from this estate is the 2018 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer, full south-facing vineyard. As with all the top whites here, it's brought up in larger format barrels, with around 25% new. It offers powerful notes of orange blossom, candied tangerines, flower oil, candle wax, and liquid rock-like minerality. These carry to a full-bodied monster of a wine that expands beautifully on the palate, yet still stays pure, balanced, and chiseled. Drink this blockbuster any time over the coming two decades or more.

Lush and exotic, with creamed mango, peach and papaya notes that are nonetheless fresh in feel, glistening with verbena, chamomile and honeysuckle accents and backed by a mouthwatering swath of salted butter on the finish. Drink now through 2035.