The latest rendition of Hébrart's NV Brut Premier Cru Sélection, disgorged earlier this year, is derived largely from Mareuil-sur-Ay, supplemented by some 13% from Chouilly. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, white flowers and fresh pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, with good concentration and structure in a charming format, concluding with an elegantly chalky finish.

This elegant version features an expressive profile that rides the delicate, lacy mousse, enlivened by finely knit, vibrant acidity. Abundant spice and graphite notes accent a creamy mix of glazed apple, honey, brioche and lemon parfait. Lightly chalky on the lingering finish.