Penfolds Bin 600 California Cabernet-Shiraz is a crimson color. Cabernet notes are first acknowledged, manifesting as cranberries, raspberries and goji berries. There is a faint hint of volatility, a nod to the Penfolds House Style, emerging from the glass in the guise of pomegranate molasses. North African spices add a toasty note with cumin, paprika and Aleppo peppers conjuring thoughts of warm Arabian nights... fragrant ras el hanout Moroccan tagine, lamb shawarma. On closer inspection, chocolate emerges in several guises. Dark cooking chocolate, cherry ripe and rocky road. Shiraz adding a certain je ne sais quoi, present but lurking in the background like the ever-reliable wingman. There is a beautiful core of generous red, blue and black fruits. At once concentrated, yet fresh. Summer berry pudding with anglaise. Rhubarb tart, apple and cinnamon strudel, Morello cherries. Shiraz plays a more important role here than on the aromatic profile by anchoring the mid-palate and providing plenty of generosity. Yin to the cabernet Yang. Fine talc-like tannins hold the expressive fruit in check, while soft acidity keeps everything in balance. Very approachable now, but with the promise of more to come.

• Cabernet Sauvignon • Syrah •