Redolent of cherry tart, dried black fig and plum pudding flavors, with accents of hazelnut. The fruity finish is loaded with Asian spice and dark chocolate notes

The brightness of this wine comes across in a glaze of sweetness, like the brûlée on the top of the crème. The fruit, grown at a vineyard in the arid Douro Superior, still carries a touch of schisty tannins, along with notes of fresh orange and green fig. This is sleek and elegant, a 10-year-old with energy, gracefully mellowing into the complex notes of older wines that last.

Beautifully focused and balanced, this has fine mid-palate weight for the category and a complex medley of concentrated flavors on the finish. Quite gripping, it is beautifully done and rather impressive, while always remaining graceful and impeccably balanced. There is very respectable tension on the finish, too, that enlivens the wine. Taste this in isolation and you'll think my score is pretty stingy, but remember that there does need to be some headroom when we step up to the long-aged Tawny treasures.