Perfumy and ripe, this red oozes soft black currant and lavender, showing a polished texture. A bitter mineral flash provides contrast, with mesquite, incense and singed garrigue on the lush finish. A spine of iron brings structure and drives the impressive length. There’s a lot to love. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now through 2038.

The 2023 Gigondas from Château de Saint-Cosme is especially promising, bursting with aromas of ripe black raspberries, red plums, garrigue, licorice and incense. Medium- to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it’s rich without excess, with a layered core of fruit, powdery tannins and a bright, saline finish that lends a sense of energy and poise. As always, it’s a blend of multiple terroirs—limestone, marl and sandy soils—which lend the cuvée both depth and aromatic range. This will offer a great drinking window, but a few years in bottle will only enhance its complexity.