Dry, with an above-average body but the also the elegance and sapidity that we associate with the pago Balbaína. It’s vinous style which appears to start light-footed, mostly on lemon peel, but once you swallow it bursts open into big saline notes, a whole lot of flor, hay and soft hints of olive brine. There’s a warm, savoury backbone and even a faint animal side to it as well. Long finish with the bitter herbs standing out. A serious Fino.

• Palomino •