A toasty Champagne in an aperitif style, creamy on the palate and showing flavors of poached apricot, preserved lemon and grated ginger underscored by a hint of smoke.

The latest release of Taittinger's NV Brut La Française is decidedly youthful out of the gates, offering up notes of green apple, warm biscuits, fresh bread and citrus oil. Medium-bodied, bright and pillowy, with tangy acids and a fleshy core of fruit, it concludes with an elegantly chalky finish. Its cut and structure will reward a bit of bottle age.